How to Get Rid of Armadillos

How to Get Rid of Armadillos

If you’re reading this, you’re probably staring at fresh crater-like holes in your lawn, flipped mulch, or a burrow near a foundation and thinking: “This is getting ridiculous.”

I get it. Armadillos are weirdly determined. They don’t “politely” nibble leaves like deer. They excavate. And they often do it at the worst time—right after you’ve reseeded, laid sod, or finally made your flower beds look like you live in a magazine.

Here’s the good news: armadillos are very beatable—but only if you use methods that match how they behave.

And here’s the honest truth: most popular tips you’ll find online are fluff. There are no reliably effective frightening devices and no registered repellents that consistently solve the problem.

So, in this guide, I’m going to walk you through the same no-nonsense process I’d use if this were my own yard: confirm the culprit, block what you can, trap what you can’t, and do it safely and legally.

Important disclaimer: Wildlife rules vary by state/county (especially around trapping, relocation, and euthanasia). Always check your local regulations or your state wildlife agency before trapping or moving wildlife. If you’re unsure, hire a licensed nuisance wildlife operator.

First: Are You Sure It’s Armadillos?

Armadillo damage has a “signature.” Before you buy anything, take 90 seconds to confirm you’re fighting the right animal.

What armadillo damage looks like

• Cone-shaped holes in turf/flower beds (often 1–3 inches wide) from rooting for grubs/insects

• Shallow trenches in mulch

• Burrow openings about 7–8 inches in diameter, often near cover (brush piles, shrubs, woodlines)

• Activity often increases from dusk through early morning in warm months

Quick “sanity checks” so you don’t chase the wrong fix

• Skunks also dig, but often leave more “torn up” patches and may target grubs broadly.

• Moles create raised tunnels/ridges.

• Raccoons can roll back chunks of sod like a carpet.

If you’re seeing those neat little “divots” and a burrow opening that looks like a mini culvert—yeah, that’s armadillo territory.

The Truth About Repellents, Poison, and “Scare Tactics”

Let’s save you time and frustration.

Repellents

Multiple extension and wildlife damage management resources are blunt here: repellents aren’t a reliable solution for armadillos, and no frightening devices are known to effectively control them. 

Poisoning/fumigants

In many places, toxicants/fumigants for armadillos are not registered or are restricted, and misuse can be dangerous to pets, children, and non-target wildlife. Extension guidance tends to steer homeowners toward exclusion + trapping as the practical, lawful route.

My preference (from a “what works and won’t create a bigger mess” standpoint): Start with route-based trapping and/or small-area exclusion. That’s where the win rate is.

The 3 Methods That Actually Work (and When to Use Each)

1) Exclusion fencing (best for gardens and “high-value zones”)

If you have one area that keeps getting wrecked—like a raised bed, flower border, or a specific section of lawn—exclude it.

Specs that show up consistently across extension/wildlife control guidance:

• Fence at least ~3 feet high (some guidance suggests ~2 feet minimum for small areas, but taller is safer)

• Bury the bottom 12–18 inches (deeper for sandy soil)

• Consider an outward slant (~40°) on the above-ground portion

• Heavy-duty hardware cloth / welded wire 

• Ground stakes + zip ties

Common mistake: People install a cute little 12-inch decorative border and wonder why it fails. Armadillos are built to dig under and push through weak barriers.

2) Live trapping (highest success for most homeowners)

If you want the most reliable “one-and-done” approach, this is it.

Use the right trap size

A recurring recommendation is a live-catch trap around 12” x 12” x 32”. Smaller traps (often marketed for skunks) can be too small.

My strong preference: a double-door trap (two-way entry). It simply increases your odds.

• Raccoon-size/double-door live trap 

Where to set the trap (this is the part most people mess up)

Armadillos don’t roam randomly like a cartoon villain. They often follow:

• Fence lines

• Building edges

• Brush/woodline borders

• Clear travel “trails” in grass

• Directly at the burrow entrance if you’ve located it

The “funnel” trick (little-known, high-impact)

You can dramatically boost trap success by using simple “wings”—boards or temporary wire panels that guide the animal into the trap opening. One classic wildlife damage reference describes using boards about 6 feet long to funnel them.

In plain English: make it easier to walk into the trap than around it.

Do you need bait?

Usually no—armadillos are often caught by placement and funneling, not bait. Some sources mention occasional homeowner success with things like overripe fruit or eggs, but it’s not the main lever.

Common mistake: People set a trap in the middle of the yard with “bait” and hope. That’s like putting a toll booth in the desert.

3) Habitat tweaks (good support, rarely enough alone)

These won’t magically remove an armadillo overnight, but they reduce how “comfortable” your yard feels.

Helpful moves:

• Remove brush piles / dense cover where practical (armadillos like protected areas for burrows)

• Limit easy access to moist, insect-rich zones (overwatering can increase soil invertebrates)

A big note here: trying to “eliminate grubs” as a sole strategy is hit-or-miss because armadillos eat a wide range of invertebrates, not just one pest category. Use habitat tweaks as support, not your primary weapon.

Quick Comparison Table: What to Choose

Method	Best for	Cost	Speed	Success rate	Downsides
Exclusion fencing	Gardens/flower beds, small protected zones	$$	Medium	High (when built correctly)	Labor; needs proper depth/height
Live trapping	Most homes with repeated damage	$$	Fast	Very high with correct placement	Must follow local laws; humane handling required
Habitat tweaks	Reducing future attraction	$	Slow	Medium	Rarely enough by itself
Hire a pro	Burrows near foundation; repeated failures	$$$	Fast	High	Cost; varies by provider
Repellents/scare devices	(Honestly…)	$	—	Low	Largely ineffective for armadillos

The Step-by-Step Action Plan (Do This in Order)

Step 1: Map the pattern (15 minutes)

Walk your yard and note:

• Fresh holes (especially newest)

• Any burrow openings

• Trails along fences/edges

• Nearby cover (brush, shrubs, woodline)

Pro tip: Newest damage is your best clue for current travel routes.

Step 2: Decide your “protect vs. remove” strategy

• If damage is concentrated in one prized area → start with exclusion there.

• If damage is happening across the yard → trap first, then consider targeted exclusion.

Step 3: Set the trap like you mean it

1. Choose a 12"x12"x32" (approx.) live trap; double-door if possible.

2. Place it on a travel line (fence/building edge) OR at the burrow entrance.

3. Add funnel wings (boards or temporary wire) to guide entry.

4. Skip bait unless you’re stuck (placement beats bait).

5. Check the trap frequently (for humane reasons and because local rules may require it).

• Double-door live trap

• Work gloves + long-handled tools

Step 4: Protect yourself (yes, really)

Armadillos are wild animals. There is documented concern about Hansen’s disease (leprosy) in some armadillo populations, and public health guidance emphasizes treating armadillos as wildlife and using sensible precautions (avoid contact with blood/tissues, use gloves, hygiene).

Safety basics:

• Wear gloves when handling traps, soil near burrows, or contaminated areas

• Wash hands after yard work

• Avoid direct contact with animal tissues/blood

• If you’re disturbing a burrow or heavy dust/soil, consider a mask as an extra layer of caution (especially if you’re in regions with documented cases)

Health disclaimer: If you’ve had direct contact with an armadillo or are worried about exposure, consult a healthcare professional for personalized advice.

Troubleshooting: “If This, Then That” (Fast Fix Finder)

• If you’re setting traps and catching nothing → Move the trap to a fence-line/trail, add funnel wings, and make sure the trap is large enough.

• If damage is only in one garden bed → Skip the yard-wide war; build small-area exclusion with proper burial depth.

• If you keep seeing a burrow near a foundation → Prioritize professional help (structural risk + safe removal). Texas A&M and other sources note burrows can be placed near structures and trapping at the entrance is a common tactic.

• If someone told you to use mothballs/ammonia/ultrasonic devices → Don’t waste your weekend. These are not supported as reliable armadillo controls in mainstream wildlife damage guidance.

• If you see new holes every night → You likely have an active route. Trap placement (not bait) is the lever.

A Simple “Armadillo Removal Checklist” (Copy/Paste)

Today

•  Confirm armadillo signs (divots + trail + burrow opening)

•  Identify 1–2 travel routes (fence line / building edge)

•  Choose method: trap, exclude, or both

This week

•  Set raccoon-size live trap on route (or burrow entrance)

•  Add funnel wings (boards or temporary wire)

•  Check trap frequently; follow local rules

•  Install exclusion around high-value bed (12–18" buried; adequate height; consider outward slant)

Ongoing

•  Reduce cover/brush piles where feasible

•  Monitor for fresh digging after removal

When to Call Wildlife Services or a Pro

If you’ve tried the basics and the animal keeps returning—or the situation feels risky—getting help can be the smartest “ROI” move.

Options:

• State-licensed nuisance wildlife control operator (often the best fit for homeowners)

• USDA APHIS Wildlife Services (they provide wildlife damage management assistance in many contexts; availability varies by area and situation).

FAQs: How Do I Get Rid of Armadillos?

1) What’s the fastest way to get rid of an armadillo?

Live trapping on a travel route (fence line, building edge, or burrow entrance) is typically the fastest reliable method—especially using a properly sized trap and simple funneling.

2) Do armadillo repellents work?

Most reputable wildlife damage guidance says repellents aren’t reliably effective for armadillos, and “frightening devices” aren’t known to work consistently either.

3) What kind of fence keeps armadillos out?

A common recommendation is a fence buried 12–18 inches (deeper in sandy soil) and tall enough to deter climbing/jumping, sometimes with an outward slant. It’s most practical for small, high-value areas like garden beds.

4) Should I bait an armadillo trap?

Usually, no. Many guides emphasize that trap placement and funneling matter more than bait; if bait is used, it’s typically secondary.

5) Is it dangerous to handle armadillos?

Treat them like any wild animal. There is documented public health guidance around Hansen’s disease (leprosy) risk being low but real enough to justify precautions—avoid direct contact, wear gloves, and practice good hygiene.

6) Will killing grubs stop armadillos from digging?

Sometimes it may reduce food availability, but armadillos eat a broad range of invertebrates, and guidance generally emphasizes trapping and exclusion as the dependable solutions.

Next Steps / Key Takeaways

• Don’t start with gimmicks. Repellents and scare devices are rarely worth your time.

• Start with behavior: find the route (fence line/edge) and set the trap there.

• Use the right tool: a 12"x12"x32" live trap (double-door preferred) + funnel wings is a proven combo.

• Protect the prize: exclude high-value beds with properly buried fencing.

• Be safe and legal: wear gloves, practice hygiene, and follow local rules for trapping/relocation.